Видео

@ozzstars_cars You know more than most people now on this subject, which includes professional mechanics. A lot of shops mechanics work at have a machine that does the fluid exchange for them. They just hook it up and push a button.

That’s just our shtick my guy! Thanks for the comment 💪🏼 - Sean

Also i ended up getting all the parts on ebay, already had the pumps working, and snorkles, so valve assembly, gaskets, tubes all for $230...

@@JETSPEED117 You're welcome. I'm glad you found our video helpful.

@jameslast3192 cleaning the contacts is safe enough, this shouldn’t start a fire and furthermore, a fuse should pop before the wiring heats up past a point of concern. - Sean

@@TimmyTheToolman I’m a firefighter so I’m a bit over cautious. For the sake of a few dollars I’d sleep better at night replacing it. My 2006 Toyota is doing this atm. I can hear it sparking so the video is helpful knowing I can easily replace it myself. You can get new ones from China for about 15 USD.

@@jameslast3192 They might be new parts from China but they aren't on par with OEM Toyota parts. But, it's your truck and you can do as you see fit. Good luck!

Thanks Jay! You're very welcome!

We bought separate parts but we do link a full kit in the video description. You just have to click on "...more" to expand the description.

Hey Steve, good to know our video is helping you out.

Expand the video description my clicking on "...more" and you'll find his contact info.

I suppose. I've never tried it.

You need a different brake line to work with the Tundra calipers. You don't need to buy them from LcE Performance, but you'll need to buy a kit from somewhere.

I'm not sure about the uppers, but Whiteline bushings are way better for the lowers. Energy Suspension aren't a complete bushing and sleeve combo like the Whiteline bushings are. If you can't find something similar to Whiteline for the uppers, I'd go with OEM Toyota bushings.

@@williammaes I don't know the official name or part number for that shield. I would just visit your local Toyota dealer for help with that.

@@citizen_or_civilian leaking already?…

@@TimmyTheToolman Maybe. Been having an intermittent misfire on cylinder three. Went to replace coil packs and spark plugs only to find out that the front two passenger side spark plugs were submerged in oil. Spark plug tube seals are my next culprit. I figure I'd replace the valve cover gaskets and such while I'm at it.

@citizen_or_civilian Replacing the spark plug tube seals should be part of a valve cover gasket job. The cam plugs at the rears of the heads should be replaced, and the half moons should be resealed.

Welcome to the channel. I'm glad our video helped you out.

💪🏼💪🏼💪🏼

Thanks! I'm guessing our video must have helped you fix your Sequoia.

You're fine. Put it back together.

You'll find it on the passenger side of the block. It's easy to identify because it's a 14mm bolt head and it's not holding anything to the block. It's easiest to get to via the passenger side wheel well. Get the plastic and rubber splash guards out of the way and you might even want to remove the passenger tire to give you more room to work and see in there.

@@TimmyTheToolman Thanks a bunch.

@@john_duncan You're welcome.

Thanks for sharing your information. 1)The tensioner pulley didn't strip when I tightened it. When watching the video footage, one camera angle showed directly into that bolt hole and I could see threads hanging. So, the damage was done upon removal, not installation. Toyota used a thread locker on those threads because it is a through-hole, meaning engine oil could travel along the threads and leak out. It's my belief the thread locker Toyota chose was a bit too aggressive and the soft aluminum threads sometimes pull out. If my theory is wrong, then the damage was done by a previous mechanic. Since making this video, many others have reported their idler pulley threads stripped out as well. 2) I now do something similar as you do. I slacken the belt to make it easier to get the belt on properly to the crankshaft timing gear. I have added a pinned comment to update the job and maybe you read it. I learned that there is a timing dot on the front face of the timing gear. It is easy to miss. That dot should align with the "CR" line on the belt. With that timing mark lined up and the other cam marks lined up, you essentially know you have the belt on perfectly. You should finish off with a couple rotations of the engine just to be sure, but knowing that timing dot is there makes the belt installation much more straightforward. 3) Others have reported giving up on getting to that back tensioner bolt. A 1/4" extension and socket can get in there easier. A wobble extension is now my go-to extension because it eliminates the need for a swivel. 4) Finally, you unfortunately learned the hard way that not all Ebay sellers are created equal. We promoted the Air Cabin Man seller because nobody ever reports having issues with it. People go cheaper and find out that was a bad decision. Thanks for the comment!

@@TimmyTheToolman Tim, thank you for posting the most informative and detailed repair procedures on your RUclips channel, that has always been the first place I check when I need information or repair procedures on my 4Runner. My comments were only precautionary, and I wanted to share my experience with people wanting to change their timing belts.

@@transformer889 You're welcome and I'm glad you were willing to take the time to share your experience with this job.

Well there is only 2 wires (hot and ground), so you must have wired them incorrectly. - Sean

You bet! 👍🏻

I don't know the part numbers for those hoses. Your local Toyota dealer is probably your best bet. They can't be that expensive. One tube of FIPG is way more than enough. It's been a while and I can't even remember what I used grease on, but it can't be that much.

@@TimmyTheToolman appreciate it! thanks timmy!

@@isaacsumera3795 No problem.

Hell yeah bro! Keep up the Sicmods! - Sean

If they have excessive play, they are bad. Check this video out. ruclips.net/video/ld1L_nWTOGI/видео.htmlsi=Njo8J0bQXKwE2FyX

Yeah, working with exhaust is usually not a fun experience because the bolts and nut always fight you.

I would do a compression test of your cylinders before bringing it to a shop. ruclips.net/video/ky7bndfFpO0/видео.htmlsi=gmgkjjLxoLaexOtq If you find any cylinders with low compression, I would then do a leak down test of those cylinders to figure out where you are losing the compression to. ruclips.net/video/8yuCHzqH7MY/видео.htmlsi=ioE8oJRuiMu3dXV4

​@@TimmyTheToolman I could, but this is happening so randomly, and it doesn't happen for very long when it does happen, so it would be almost impossible to complete the test.

@@gregsewell0 You do a compression test and leak-down test with the engine OFF. Watch the videos.

Putting fresh fluid into a high mileage abused transmission has resulted in issues for some people. There's two lines of thought on why this is. One is the abused transmission that never got a fluid exchange has caused excessive wear inside the transmission. Some of that wear is from friction material that came off the clutches. The clutches are worn, but the suspended friction material in the fluid is keeping the transmission from slipping. When you drain out the old fluid and replace it with new fluid, you lost that friction material the fluid was holding and now the transmission slips. The second theory is the abused transmission has sludge deposit build-up inside. Transmission fluid has great detergent qualities. When you drain out the old fluid and replace with new fluid, the detergent in the fluid works on those sludge deposits and they break free. The deposits go through the system and get lodged in a tight fluid passageway like in the valve body. Part of the transmission then gets starved of lubrication and the transmission fails. Some believe in these two theories, and others say it's bullshit and it's never bad to add fresh fluid to an automatic transmission. I lean towards believing there's some truth to these theories. If you're worried about it, you can do a simple drain and refill of the pan. This only exchanges around 1/3 of the system capacity, around 4 quarts. After another 5,000 miles, perform a second drain and refill. After another 5,000 miles, do a third one. After the 3rd drain and refill, your fluid should be in good shape. This slowly renews the fluid rather than a full flush that renews the fluid in one shot.

@@diamondbackecological Toyota OEM equipment! Don’t mess around with aftermarket. - Sean

@@TimmyTheToolman thanks Sean. I have Tundra 199s. Trying to get something extra out of them. My build is heavy.

Upgrade to 231mm rotors then! - Sean

@@TimmyTheToolman yeah yeah. That means all new rims and new tires. That's a few grand

@@diamondbackecological So, you're stuck with 199s then. You can't do better than the OEM rotors and pads.

A t100 brake booster is a MOD people have done. 1” bore vs 7/8” - Sean

@@TimmyTheToolman is a straight bolt in job? What about the MS? Does that work too?

@@zee_nyc this whole series is pretty radical. Lots of good info with the owner of ECGS himself! - Sean

@@derekcapitano5257 that’s the name of the game for us bro! We try not to leave any details out. Swing back around when you’re done and share your experience and hopefully success with us via another comment! - Sean

Huge Success Timmy! I appreciate all of your help!

Also, I just watched your rear axle bearing replacement video and realized you are a Firefighter. I retired 2.5 years ago after 30 years of service here in West Central Florida. I was passionate about the job but an highly enjoying retirement.

@@derekcapitano5257 I just retired 2 months ago. I miss the job at some level, but there was quite a bit of B.S. that I don't miss. When there were true emergencies I was helping with, I felt satisfied with the job. Unfortunately, the high majority of our call volume is not emergencies. I miss the adrenaline pumping calls, I miss driving the fire engine, and I miss a lot of the guys. It feels weird to be retired, but time doesn't stop for anyone and it was my time to go and let some young guy take my place. I plan on enjoying my retirement, and I already am.

@@derekcapitano5257 I'm happy to hear you had success with the help of our video. Good job!

Dude that’s HUGE! We are stoked you took the time to comment and share your success with us. That’s the whole reason we are here and we love hearing from our subscribers’! - Sean

We try bro! Be sure to watch part 2 in case you’re having trouble with getting the belt over that pulley. - Sean

Any time!! 🤙🏼

Keep us updated with your progress! We love hearing from people!

@@user-rl9he8sc9x You're very welcome.

Thanks for the nice compliment of our work, Stephen. We appreciate it and you're very welcome!

These things happen. I'm glad you got your rig back on the road/trail.

I don't know what he is referring to. There isn't a retainer but there is a spacer.

I don't know why the suggested temp to dial in the fluid level would change if it's the exact same transmission but just a different year GX470. What manual are you using? I pulled my information from the Tech Info website.

@@TimmyTheToolman Lexus 2006 Repair Manual GX470. I took pictures of the pages but can't figure out how to add these to this post. Pages AT-164 to 166. Temp is on bottom of page 165.

@@bobmccurrach4483 I didn't know Toyota/Lexus was still making the physical books in 2006. I was guessing you were using a Haynes manual. I don't know what to tell you on this other than I downloaded my information straight from the Toyota Tech Info website. If yours is a Toyota manual as well, the only thing I can chock it up to is mistakes are made in these manuals that the technical writers miss. The temp range I got was 97-115 and yours is 115 -130. Split the difference and dial in your fluid around the 115-120 degree mark. You'll be fine. These transmissions can run a little low or a little high with no issues.

@@TimmyTheToolman Got my GX about 1 1/2 years ago with 170K miles, now at 195K miles. Used 120F (great minds think alike!) when I did the level check yesterday. Think it had been about 1/2 QT low and the fluid was pretty dark so I just did the drain and fill. Got 3 QTs out with the drain. Do you think 1/2 QT low for my 20K miles was doing anything bad? So now I have replaced 3 of 12 (is this the full capacity?). I'm of 2 minds for my next step at next oil change interval. I will definitely drop the pan and change the strainer. But do I then flush or refill with about 3 Qts? Thoughts?

@bobmccurrach4483 A half quart low isn't a big deal. If your rig had fairly regular fluid renewals, replacing the strainer is probably not necessary. If the maintenance history is unknown, then it wouldn't be a bad idea to replace it. Doing drain and refills are a great way to keep your fluid in good shape. If the fluid looks pretty pretty dark still at the next change, I'd follow it up with another drain and refill and maybe time it with your next engine oil and filter change.

@@jayrobertybanez4196 Our pleasure.

@isaias.ramon.gonzalez.angel.63 Push down on the front and rear of the vehicle. If the suspension sinks, rises, and stops fairly quickly, the shocks are probably still good. If the vehicle keeps moving and swaying, the shocks are shot.

You're welcome.

Good luck with the rest of the swap. Let me know how it works out for you.

@@TimmyTheToolman thanks!

@ChengLee-h3v I don't know the part numbers for those. I'd try your local Toyota dealer parts department and see if they can help you out.

Thanks if I figure it out I’ll let you know maybe the next guy may need it

@@ChengLee-h3v Yes, if you can report back with the part numbers, I'll add them to the video description. Thanks!

@@vamonosnos You're welcome.